poor scientist. will blog 4 food.

the culinary adventures of a self-described foodie

A Historical Tour of Lower Manhattan, Foodie Style


I know what you’re thinking. “She STILL has material from NYC?! From AUGUST?!” Never fear, my readers, this is the last post about NYC. It’s ridiculous how backlogged I am, but now that I’m done traveling and finished with my grant (thank goodness), I hope to be blogging more regularly.

On my last full day in NYC, RS and I headed to the Essex Street Market in the Lower East Side. According to their website, the market was established in 1940 to organize the pushcarts and vendors into one location. Unfortunately for us, 10:30am on a Monday morning wasn’t exactly a bustling time at the Market, as most vendors were just beginning to set up shop. It’s basically a bunch of different kind of food vendors (produce, cheese, specialty items) under one roof.

Without any particular purpose or destination, we kept walking. We happened to pass Katz’s Deli again, which was much less busy compared to my experience just a couple of days before. We then walked past Russ and Daughters, which caught my eye previously but didn’t get a very good look. RS and I stopped in to check it out. The store is pristine with attractive, retro decor. The counters were full of delicious looking things, familiar and strange. Even though I wasn’t very hungry, the tubs of cream cheese alone made me salivate. Interestingly, in 1933, Joel Russ changed the name of his store to Russ and Daughters. According to the website, Russ and Daughters may have been the first business to officially have the word “Daughters” in its name. Way to go, Joel Russ!

russ and daughters

RS picked up a bagel with cream cheese at Russ and Daughters, and we kept walking. We ended up at the Ear Inn, on the other side of Lower Manhattan. It is a bar and restaurant housed in the James Brown House, which is a designated landmark of NYC. Even though there is a significant chunk of land separating the Inn from the water today, it used to be located five feet from the water. Thus, it was a favorite amongst sailors, who called the bar “The Green Door.” In fact, the bar never had a real name until 1977, when the neon sign reading “Bar” burned slightly, resulting in the B looking like an E. From then on, the bar was renamed the Ear Inn.

the ear inn

Inside, the woodwork and decor is reminiscent of being in the hull of a ship. The bathroom was so small that it was indeed a “water closet.” For lunch, RS and I shared an avocado, tomato, and cucumber salad, smoked trout (sorry that’s mislabeled on the collage), and steamed mussels. It was good, though I have to say that the avocado didn’t quite match California standards. (I know, I’m such a snob!)

After leaving RS, I made my way to Queens to meet up with EY, where I had my first Pinkberry experience! (I just realized that statement sounds pretty perverted if you don’t know what Pinkberry is.) Anyway, Pinkberry was among the first of the “real frozen yogurt” places, meaning that it tastes more tart and less sweet, like real yogurt. I had heard about them for years, but because they are very exclusive about their franchising, they are found only in select cities in California, New York, and Texas. I got the passionfruit frozen yogurt with mango and blueberry. Yum!

Fro Yo!

Fro Yo!

Author: Jen

Howdy! My name is Jen and I live in the San Francisco Bay Area. I like to eat, run, and blog, but not usually at the same time.

2 thoughts on “A Historical Tour of Lower Manhattan, Foodie Style

  1. I LOVE Pinkberry for just the reasons you described- nice and tart. Nick doesn’t like if for the reasons you described- not too sweet. The closest one to our apartment is almost a mile away. And yes, I totally walk it for the Pinkberry at the end.

  2. I was WONDERING what you did with those pictures 😉

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